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Amigurumi

Angelynn A Miniature Bear Crochet Free Pattern

LIST OF MATERIALS (Bear is 3″ or 7.5cm):
• *Punch thread – Sand, or color of choice for bear (1 spool will make at least 2 bears)
Turquoise or color of choice for dress
Gold or color of choice for dress trim
White for panties and socks
Red for shoes and bow
• Size 12 (1mm) crochet hook
• Fiberfill or stuffing of choice
• Two 3-mm onyx beads or bear eyes
• 1 mini disc joint set for head (two 1/4″ discs and one 1/2″ cotter pin)
• Black embroidery floss
• Black nylon thread for attaching eyes
• Upholstery thread in color similar to bear – for jointing
• Sewing Needles: 2-inch sharp, beading, small tapestry, small sewing needle
• Small hemostat, dowel, long tweezers, or other long, narrow tool for stuffing
• Small needle-nose pliers for cotter pin
• Small, sharp scissors
• Pink water color pencil, such as Prisma, OR makeup blush – for shading cheeks
• Black micro-tip marker
* Note: You can substitute the thread of your choice, but make sure to use the
same size thread and hook for the bear and her clothing.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS:
GAGE: Gage is not important as long as you use the same size thread and hook for the
bear and her clothes. However, when making two pieces that must be the same, such as
arms and legs, it’s best to make both in one sitting. Otherwise the two pieces may be
different sizes, because the tension that you use on the thread often changes depending on
mood or time of day.
TENSION: When working with fine thread, wrap the thread clockwise (counterclockwise
for left-handers) before draping it over your index finger. Be sure the thread is
loose enough to flow smoothly. This will take some stress off your hands, and your
fingers won’t get fatigued so fast.
WEAVING/HIDING LOOSE THREAD ENDS: When making the doll, you can hide
the loose ends by pulling them to the inside of the piece with a tapestry needle. Pass the
needle through the piece 2 or 3 times to anchor the thread end (always go in and come out
between stitches, being careful not to catch any fabric), then pull the thread taut, and clip
close to the surface so that it disappears inside.
For other pattern pieces, it’s best to weave all loose ends as you finish each piece. If you
can’t hide the beginning tail by working over it for a few stitches, leave a tail that is long
enough to enable you to thread it onto a needle to weave it. When you fasten off, always
leave a tail that is long enough to thread onto a needle and weave.
TO WEAVE LOOSE ENDS: Thread the tail onto a needle. Working on the WS of the
piece and beginning directly beneath the place where you fastened off, insert the needle
underneath and through the upper loops of fabric for a length of 4 or 5 stitches, and then
turn and repeat through 2 or 3 of the same stitches in the opposite direction.
HDC2TOG: Half double crochet two together. (YO and insert hook into next stitch,
yoh and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) twice, YO and pull through
all loops on hook.
HDC3TOG: Half double crochet three together. (YO and insert hook into next stitch,
yoh and pull up a loop, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) 3 times, YO and pull
through all loops on hook.
————————————————————————————

ABBREVIATIONS
alt – alternate
approx – approximately
beg – begin/beginning
bet — between
BL – back loop
ch – chain stitch
ch- – refers to a ch space previously made:
e.g., ch-1 space
cm – centimeter(s)
cont — continue
Dc – double crochet (UK treble cr)
Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
(decrease)
Dec – decreases(s)
ea – each
FL – front loop(s)
FO – fasten off
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches
together
inc – increase
lp(s) – loops
mm – millimeter(s)
oz – ounce(s)
pl – place
prev – previous
rem – remaining
rep – repeat(s)
rnd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
sc – single crochet (same as UK dc)
sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together
sk – skip
Sl st – slip stitch (same as UK sc)
Sp(s) – space(s)
St – stitch
tog — together
WS — wrong side
Yd(s) – yard(s)
YO – yarn over
Yoh – yarn over hook
See List of Internet Supply Sources on Page 14

HEAD:
1. Ch 5 with bear color, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch; move around to opposite
side of chain, sc in next 4 free lps, do not join – place rnd marker. (8 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 4 times. (12 sc)
3. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc) twice. (14 sc)
4. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
5. Sc in next 2 sc, move rnd marker here (this changes the beginning point for the round
– it does NOT change the stitch count), sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
• Place a contrasting marker in the next stitch, which you will leave in to mark the
bottom center of the muzzle. This will help you place the joint pin later.
6. 2 sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)
7. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)
8. 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 3 times, 2 sc in
next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice, 2 sc in
ea of next 3 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (44 sc)
9. Sc in next 2 sc, move marker to begin rnd here, sc in ea sc around. (44 sc)
10 – 13. Sc in ea sc around. (44 sc)
14. Sc in next sc, move marker to begin rnd here, (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 11 times.
(33sc)
15 – 16. Sc in ea sc around. (33 sc)
17. Sc in next 2 sc, (sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) 5 times, sc in next sc. (28 sc)
18. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)
• At this point, place one of the discs onto the cotter pin; push the pin all the way up
against the loop of the pin. Insert the pin inside the head and out the center bottom of
the head between rows 11 and 12, directly in line with the middle of the snout, easing
the pin through carefully between rows and stitches so as not to tear the thread.
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) 7 times. (21 sc)
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 7 times. (14 sc)
• Stuff head firmly, shaping as you go. Check shaping from all angles – head should be
round from the front and the back views. With clean fingers, gently massage it into
shape.
21. Sc in ea sc around. (14 sc)
22. (Sc2tog) 7 times, keeping stitches as tight as possible; fasten off with sl st in next sc,
leaving long end for closing. (7 sc)
• Add more stuffing if needed to round out the back of the head. Thread long end on
needle and sew a row of gathering stitches in and out around the front loops of rnd
22; pull to gather and close. Punch thread will break rather easily, so use the
following method to close: (take a stitch, then pull gently), repeat within ( ) for each
stitch around. That way, the opening should be closed by the time you’ve made the
last stitch. Gently pull once more until opening is tightly closed. Insert needle into
head and pull out another spot to secure hide thread end; repeat once more. Trim
thread close to surface so that it disappears inside.
EYES:
Eye Sockets: Thread a needle using a of nylon or other strong thread; knot the end.
Insert the needle up into the bottom part of the head and out the left eye location between
rows 5 and 6; tug to pull the knot inside the head. Take a stitch the length of one sc row,
inserting needle back into head, and bringing it out at the right eye location, about 8
stitches to the right of the st just taken. Pull tightly to make an indentation for left eye.
Take a stitch the length of one sc row, inserting needle into head at right eye location, and
back out where the 1st left eye stitch was taken. Pull tightly to make an indentation for
the right eye. Repeat the process a time or two if needed, going back and forth from one
eye to the other. Finally, keeping thread taut, insert needle into eye socket, and bring it
out the bottom of head. Run the needle through the bottom of the head once more to
secure, always going in and out between stitches. Clip thread close to surface so that it
disappears inside the head.
ATTACH EYES: Shade the eye sockets with a brown pencil or eye shadow (optional).
Sew the eyes on with black nylon or other strong thread, not doubled, with end knotted:
Begin by inserting the thread through the first eye bead; pull through until the thread is
doubled, then thread both ends onto the needle. Insert the needle into the first eye socket,
down through the head, and out the bottom of the head. Pull firmly to imbed the eye into
the socket. Insert the needle back into the exact spot where it came out, being careful not
to catch any fabric, and bring it out the second eye location. Remove the thread from the
needle, insert one of the thread ends into the second eye bead, then thread both ends back
onto the needle. Insert needle back into the second eye socket, and bring out at bottom of
head. Tug to imbed the eye into the socket. Keeping the thread taut so that the eye
doesn’t loosen, insert the needle back into the exact place where it came out, being careful
not to catch any fabric, and push through head horizontally and out another place on the
bottom of the head. Repeat once more. Clip the thread close to the head so that it
disappears inside. If any indentations were made on the bottom of the head, insert the tip
of the needle underneath the depression and gently pull upward until the area is even
once again.
Use a very fine tip black marker to carefully outline the eyes (optional). Make the line
with small dotting motions rather than trying to draw a solid line.

FACIAL FEATURES:
NOSE:
Using satin stitch with 2 strands of black embroidery floss, embroider a triangle at the top
of the muzzle for the nose. Begin by knotting one end of your thread; insert needle into
bottom of head; bring out center top of muzzle. Tug until knot disappears inside head.
Insert needle back into muzzle about the length of 2 sc directly down from exit point (all
bottom entry stitches will be worked into this point at nose bottom). *Push needle back
up through muzzle and out one sc to the left of top of 1st stitch, then back into muzzle at
bottom of nose.* Repeat between **, coming out one sc to the right of top of 1st stitch
this time. Continue in this manner until nose is the desired width, and is filled in with
satin stitches.
With two strands of black thread, make a vertical straight stitch centered underneath the
nose, beginning at the bottom point of the nose, and coming downward about the length
of 3 sc; do not finish off.
MOUTH:
Using the same black floss to embroider the mouth, bring the needle out about halfway
up the side of the muzzle. Bring the thread around in the shape of a smile to the other
side of the muzzle, and insert the needle into the second side, directly opposite the
beginning. (The thread should follow the curve of the rounds of the muzzle, and lay
between rows 2 and 3, touching the bottom point of the vertical stitch.) Bring the needle
back out at the center of the “smile” line, above the thread, then bring the needle down
over the thread, and insert it back in the same place where it came out. Bring the needle
out the bottom of the head (or go ahead and use the same thread to embroider the
eyebrows), then clip the thread close to the head so that then end disappears inside.
BROWS:
Embroider a straight st for each brow, two rows above the eyes and about 3 sc in length.
Follow the contours between the rows.
EARS (Make 2):
Leave a tail at the beginning of the work that is long enough to thread onto a needle and
pull inside the head.
1. Ch 2, 7 sc in 2nd ch from hook; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
2. Row 2 is front of ear. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, sc in next
sc, 2 sc in next sc; FO, leaving long end.
ATTACH EARS:
First use pins to attach the ears to the head in different positions until you are satisfied
with their placement. The ears should be cupped, with the center placed about the width
of one row behind the bottom outside edges. Sew the ears to the head. Pull the thread
inside the head to hide. Thread the beginning tail onto the needle and pull it also inside
the head to hide.
BODY:
1. Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 ch, 2 sc in last ch, continue around to
opposite side of ch and make 2 sc in 1st free lp, sc in next 4 free lps; do not join, place rnd
marker. (12 sc)
2. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
3. 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 3 sc, pl a contrasting marker
after the last stitch, which you will leave in to mark the center front. (18 sc)
4. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 2 sc, sc
in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (24 sc)
5. Sc in ea sc around. (24 sc)
6. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 22 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (26 sc)
7. Sc in ea sc around. (26 sc)
8. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 24 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (28 sc)
ATTACH HEAD:
Insert the cotter pin that protrudes from the bottom of the head into the top of the body, in
the center of the 2nd ch from the back edge of the neck, from the outside to the inside,
until head is flush against body. Push a disk onto the cotter pin until it is
flush against the fabric. With your pliers, curl the ends of the cotter pin out
and under until each rests on the disc (See illustration).
9 – 15. Sc in ea sc around. (28 sc)
16. Sc in next 2 sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, sc2tog, sc in next 4
sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog. (22
sc)
17. Sc in ea sc around. (22 sc)
18. Sc2tog twice, sc in next sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next sc,
sc2tog, sc in next sc. (15 sc)
19. Sc in ea sc around. (15 sc)
• Begin stuffing body with very small pieces of fiberfill push up around the neck joint.
Stuff body firmly.
20. (Sc2tog, sc in next sc) 5 times; FO, leaving long end for closing.
• Finish stuffing.
• Note that the body is designed to be narrow when viewed from
the front or the back. Close the bottom with a front-to-back seam,
having 5 sc on each side, using a ladder stitch (see illustration at
right).
ARMS (MAKE 2):
1. Ch 3, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next ch, moving around to work on opposite
side of ch, 2 sc in ea of next 2 ch; do not join, pl rnd marker. (8 sc)
2. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice. (10 sc)
3. Sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
• Turn the piece right side out.
4. (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc) twice. (12 sc)
5 – 6. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
7. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, (sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) twice. (10
sc)
• Stuff paw.
8. Sc in ea sc around. (10 sc)
9. Sc in next sc, move rnd marker to begin rnd here, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc. (11
sc)
10. Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc. (12 sc)
11. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
12. Sc in next 3 sc, sl st loosely in next 6 sc, sc in next 3 sc. (6 sc, 6 sl st)
• Continue stuffing.
13 – 17. Sc in ea sc around. (12 sc)
18. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) twice. (10 sc )
19. (Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc) twice; FO, leaving long end for closing. (6 sc)
• Finish stuffing firmly. If the limbs are under stuffed, your thread joint will not be
strong or attractive. Close the end using the same method used for the body. The
seam should run from top to bottom. The six slip stitches on rnds 12 and 13 are on
the top of the arm, opposite the elbow, and will enable the lower arm to bend slightly
upward. Bend the paw slightly inward toward the body.
• Use one strand of black floss to embroider 3 evenly spaced vertical straight stitches
at the end of each paw for claws.

ATTACH ARMS:

Begin by using pins to find the desired placement for the limbs: Insert a pin through each
arm from outer to inner arm, about two rows down from the top seam. Now you can play
with the placement of the arms until it looks right to you. Once you have determined
where to place the arms, mark the spot on each side where the arms will be attached.
Thread a needle (one that is long enough to go through the bear and both limbs easily)
with upholstery thread, doubled; do not knot the end. Insert needle into first shoulder,
and push through body and out the opposite side at the arm mark; leave a 3 inch (7.5cm)
tail of thread protruding from first side. Insert the needle back into the body one rnd
above and push back through body, coming out one rnd above the protruding tail. Then
insert the needle back into the same place from which the tail is protruding, push back
through to opposite side of shoulder, and back out same place as before (bottom of
stitch). Pull to indent arm sockets slightly, then insert needle into first
arm from inner arm. * Push out other side, then insert needle back into
arm in same place, dip needle down and back up, inside the arm, to
catch some stuffing to anchor the thread, then back out arm in same
place as entry. Go back into body in same place as thread joint, through
body and back out opposite side in same place as tail,** then into 2nd
arm from inner side of arm. Repeat * to ** for this arm; end by coming out just in front
of the 1st arm. Pull thread to tighten arms against body. Cut thread, leaving 3-inch tail.
Make sure arm joints are snug, then tie both sets of tails, using a surgeon’s knot (see
illustration at right). Thread the ends onto a needle, and pull through the body to hide
ends; clip close to body. Finish by using one or two strands of black floss to embroider 4
vertical straight stitches on the end of each paw for claws.
LEGS (MAKE 2):
1. Ch 5 with shoe color, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch; continue around to other
side of ch and sc in next 4 free lps; do not join, place rnd marker. (8 sc)
2. 2 sc in ea sc around. (16 sc)
3. 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in ea of next 6 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc.
(24 sc)
4. Sc in BL of ea sc around. (24 sc)
5. Sl st in next sc, ch 1, working in both lps, sc in both lps of same sc as joining and in ea
sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (24 sc)
6. Sc in same sc as joining (be careful not to work in the ch-1) and in next 3 sc, (sc2tog,
sc in next sc) 6 times, sc in next 2 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO shoe color. (18 sc)
7. Working this row in BL, join white with sc in same sc as joining, sc in next 17 sc; join
with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (18 sc)
8. Sc in same pl as joining and in next 4 sc, sc2tog 4 times, sc in next 5 sc; join with sl st
in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (14 sc)
• Stuff foot; continue to add stuffing as you work up the leg.
9. Working in both lps, sc in same pl as joining and in next 4 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next
5 sc; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (12 sc)
10 – 11. Sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, do not turn. (12 sc)
12. Sc in ea sc around; join with sl st in 1st sc, FO white. (12 sc)
13. Working in BL, join bear color in same pl as joining on row 13, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc
in ea of next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc; do not join – begin working in rnds once again. (14 sc)
14 – 18. Sc in ea sc around. (14)
19. Sc in next sc, move marker to begin rnd here, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc.
(13 sc)
20. Sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc. (12 sc)
• Stuff leg firmly.
21. (Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc) twice; FO, leaving long end for closing. (10 sc)
• Finish stuffing leg firmly.
• Sew top leg seam, using same technique used for body and arms.
MARY JANE STRAP:
Thread a needle with the same thread used for shoes. Do not double; knot the end. Insert
the needle into the bottom of the shoe toward the back of the sole, and bring it out at the
5th sc from the center back on row 5, just below the free lp formed by working row 6 in
the back loops. Bring the thread across the top of the foot, and insert the needle back into
the shoe in the same place on the opposite side of the shoe, bringing it out the bottom of
the foot. Run the needle through the shoe a time or two to secure the thread, then clip the
thread close to the surface so that it disappears inside the shoe.
SOCK RUFFLE:
1. With the top end of the leg toward you and working in the free lps around the top edge
of the sock, join gold with sl st in 1st free lp at center back, (ch 2, sl st in next free lp)
around, ending with ch 2, FO, leaving long end.
• Thread the end onto a needle, and insert into same place where 1st sl st was made.
Bring the tail out the front of the leg just below the ruffle, and clip close to surface so
that the end disappears in side the leg. Hide the beginning tail inside the leg in a
similar fashion.
ATTACH LEGS:
Begin by using pins to find the desired placement for th
Pull thread to tighten legs against body. Cut thread, leaving 3-inch tail. Make sure leg
joint is snug, then tie both sets of tails, using a surgeon’s knot. Thread the ends onto a
needle, and pull through the body to hide ends; clip close to body.
PANTIES:
1. Ch 36 with white; sl st in 1st ch to form a ring; being careful not to twist ch, ch 1, sc in
ea ch around; join with sl st in 1st sc; ch 1, turn. (36 sc)
2. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; ch 1 turn. (36 sc)
3. Sc in same pl as joining and in ea sc around; FO. (36 sc)
BACK:
4. With WS facing and working in FL, sk 31 sc on round 3, join white with sc in next sc,
sc in next 13 sc; ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
5. Sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
6. Working in FL, Sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
7. Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
8. Working in FL, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
9. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
10. Sc2tog twice; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
11. Sc in ea sc across; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
12. Sc in ea sc across; FO, leaving long end for sewing crotch seam. (2 sc)
FRONT:
4. With WS facing, sk 4 sc after back, join white with sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc; ch
1, turn. (14 sc)
5. Sc2tog, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
6. Sc2tog, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (10 sc)
7. Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
8. Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
9. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog; ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
10. Sc2tog twice; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
11 – 12. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
13. Join crotch seam. Holding row 12 of the back and row 12 of the front together, sl st
in 1st sc of both pieces at the same time, sc in next sc of both pieces at the same time; FO.
(2 sc)
BACK RUFFLES:
1. With edge of waist toward you, join gold with sl st in 1st free lp on row 7 on back of
panties, ch 2, sl st in same pl, (ch 2, sl st in next free lp, ch 2, sl st in same pl) across; FO.
(16 ch-2 lps)
2. Working in free lps at row 5, repeat row 1. (24 ch-2 lps)
3. Working in free lp at row 7, repeat row 1. (12 ch-2 lps)
• Pull all loose ends to the WS and weave them.
LEG EDGING (Both Legs):
1. With bottom of panties facing you, working on RS in row ends and stitches around leg
opening, join white with sc in crotch seam on leg opening, (sc2tog, sc in next) 8 times,
sc2tog; join with sl st in 1st sc; FO. (18 sc)
WAIST:
1. With RS facing and working in free lps around edge of waist, join white with sc at
center back, sc in next free lp, (sc2tog, sc in next free lp) 11 times, sc2tog,; join with sl st
in 1st sc; FO, leaving a long end. (24 sc)
• Weave loose thread ends, except for the one at the waist.
• Put the panties onto the bear and pull into desired position. Crotch should fit snug
against bear’s bottom, and leg openings should provide for free movement of legs.
Use the long end to tack the waist of the panties to the bear’s body, if you wish.
Otherwise just pull the loose end inside the bear to hide it.
DRESS:
SKIRT:
1. Ch 40 with turquoise, 2 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 3 hdc in next ch, (2 hdc in next ch, 3
hdc in next ch) across; ch 1, turn. (95 hdc)
2 – 3. Hdc in 1st hdc and in ea hdc across; join with sl st in 1st hdc, ch 1, turn. (95 hdc)
4. 2 hdc in 1st hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc, (2 hdc in next sc, hdc in next 5 hdc) around to last
2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in last hdc; ch 1, turn. (112 hdc)
5. Hdc in 1st hdc and in ea hdc across; join with sl st in 1st hdc; ch 1, turn. (112 hdc)
6. 2 hdc in same hdc as joining, hdc in next 5 hdc, (2 hdc in next sc, hdc in next 5 hdc)
18 times around; 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc; join with sl st in 1st hdc, FO.
(138)
7. Working in BL with RS facing, join white with sl st in 1st hdc, (ch 2, sl st in next hdc)
around; join with sl st in same pl as 1st sl st, FO.
BODICE:
1. With RS facing and working in free lps around edge of waist, join turquoise with sc in
1st free lp at back edge, ch 2, turn. (38 sc)
2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea sc across; ch 1; turn. (39 sc)
3. Sc in next 5 sc, ch 10, sk next 8 sc, sc in next 13 sc, ch 10, sk next 8 sc, sc in next 5 sc;
ch 1, turn. (40 sc, two ch-10)
4. Sc in next 4 sc, sc2tog over next sc and next ch, sc in next 8 ch, sc2tog over next ch
and next sc, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, sc2tog over next sc and next ch, sc in next 8
ch, sc2tog over next ch and next sc, sc in next 4 sc; ch 1, turn. (37 sc)
5. Sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog, (sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog) 3 times,
sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog twice, sc in next 3 sc; FO, leaving long end for sewing. (29 sc)
6. Neck Trim: With RS facing and working in BL for this row, join white with sl st in
1st sc at back edge of neck opening, ch 2, sl st in same sc, (sl st in next 2 sc, ch 1, sl st in
same pl as last sl st) across top edge of neckline to opposite edge, sl st in last sc; FO.
SLEEVE TRIM:
1. With RS facing and working in row ends and free lps across the arm hole, join white
with sl st at bottom corner of arm hole, sl st in next, ch 1, sl st in same pl, (sl st in next 2,
ch 1, sl st in same pl as last sl st) across the top and around to the opposite corner, ending
with sl st in corner (do not work in stitches at underarm); FO; hide thread ends.
FINISH DRESS: At this scale even the tiniest buttons and ribbon roses can look out of
proportion, so we’ll embroider our buttons and our “rose.”
1. Using one strand of red embroidery floss (or you can use sewing thread), use a french
knot to create a “rose” at the center of the bodice, just below the neck trim:
• Insert the threaded needle from the WS and bring out the RS just below the white
neck trim. Lay the needle flat beside the thread that is protruding from the exit
point. Holding the needle in place with your left thumb, wrap the thread around
the tip of the needle 5 times and then, holding the knot in place with your left
thumb, pull the needle carefully until the knot is against
the fabric. Insert the needle back into the RS very close
to where it came out, and draw the needle out the WS,
tightening the knot against the bodice.
• Change to one strand of green floss or sewing thread.
Make a tiny straight stitch on either side of the “rose”
knot: Insert the needle from the WS through to the RS,
coming out very close to the “rose.” Insert the needle back into the RS about
1mm away, and draw the thread through until the “leaf” is flat. Repeat to make
another leaf on the other side of the “rose.”
2. Using one strand of white floss or sewing thread, make 3 french knots (except wrap
the needle 3 times instead of 5) down the left edge of the back opening, evenly spaced, to
resemble buttons.
3. Put the dress onto the bear and use a ladder stitch (see illustration on page 5) to close
the back opening, using the long turquoise tail remaining at top edge of bodice. Shape
the skirt gathers with your fingers.
HAIRBOW:
Tip: When instructed to turn at the end of the row without making a ch, turn the work
clockwise, then start the next row.
First Bow Loop:
1. Leaving a long tail at the beginning, ch 3 with red, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next
sc; ch 1, turn. (2sc)
2. Sc in FL of ea sc across; turn. (2 sc)
3. Sl st in 1st sc, ch 2, (ch-2 counts as 1st hdc) 2 hdc in same sc, 3 hdc in next sc; turn. (6
hdc)
4. Sl st in 1st hdc, ch 2, hdc in next 5 dc; ch 1, turn. (6 hdc)
5. Sc in 1st hdc and in ea hdc across; turn. (6 sc)
6. Sl st in 1st sc, ch 2, hdc in next 5 sc across; turn. (6 hdc)
7. Sl st in 1st hdc, ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc3tog; ch 1, turn. (2 hdc)
8. Fold the piece, having the edge of row 7 even with the edge of row 1; (sc in the next
hdc of row 7 and the next free lp of row 1 at the same time) twice; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
9. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
Second Bow Loop:
1. Sc in FL of ea sc across; turn. (2 sc)
2 – 5: Repeat rows 3 – 6 of first bow loop.
6. Sl st in 1st hdc, ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc3tog; ch 1, do not turn. (2 hdc)
7. Fold the piece with WS tog having the edge of row 6 even with the free lps at row 1;
(sl in the next hdc of row 6 and the next free lp of row 1 at the same time) twice; ch 1, do
not turn. (2 sl st)
Edge:
1. Working in ends of rows around edge of bow loop, make 8 sc evenly spaced along the
of edge of same bow loop, sl st in next 2 row ends of center section between bow loops,
continue on to next bow loop and make 8 sc evenly spaced around the loop; ch 2, turn
bow so that you’ll be working on the opposite edge of the bow loops. (16 sc, 2 sl st)
2. Working on opposite edge of bow with RS facing, work 8 sc evenly spaced in row
ends around 1st bow loop, sl st in next 2 row ends bet loops; 8 sc around edge of next bow
loop; ch 2, join with sl st in 1st sc of 1st loop, ch 1, turn. (16 sc, 2 sl st, ch-2 sp)
1. Center Piece. Sc in next 2 ch; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
2 – 4. Sc in next 2 sc; ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
5. Sc in next 2 sc; FO, leaving long end. (2 sc)
• Bring the Center Piece down over the center of the bow and wrap it around to the
back (the side with the beginning tail is the back) until the edge of row 5 meets the
edge of row 1; sew row 5 to row 1.
• Sew or pin bow to doll’s head.

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